Special thanks to the wonderful travel companions who have joined me onmy Yucat~in explorations researching this book: Ellen Kleiner, my soulmate. of Santa Fe, New Mexico; CarolDelattre, quintessentia'l culturally awartraveler, presently of San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato; and my sister, Yamalyn "Dallal" Harris, of Miami Beach, Florida. Thanks also to my par- ents, Carl and Ruth Harris of Lynnwood, Washington, for helping make thesejourneys possible. Thanks, also, to the many people on both sides of the border who helped withresearch, information and arrangements for backcountry expeditions: MarioVillanueva, Gobernador del Estado de Quintana Roo; Alberto A. RodriguezF., PhD, Asesor Ecol6gico del Ejecutivo, Gobierno del Estado de Quintana